Author Topic: oil pressure  (Read 6432 times)

Rusty

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Re: oil pressure
« Reply #15 on: April 21, 2010, 08:04:52 PM »
That is interesting, same problem with my oil dip stick.  I put in 4 quarts and it was about 1/2 between low and high.  I added another 1 or quart to get to full.  Did not help with my oil pressure problem.  The rear main oil return pipe, is it the same lenght as the one to the oil screen?  Is the rear one shorter ????    Does the bottom (inside) of your oil pan have a baffle and a "top plate".
rusty

chetbrz

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Re: oil pressure
« Reply #16 on: April 22, 2010, 05:41:56 PM »
The rear main oil return pipe, is it the same lenght as the one to the oil screen?  Is the rear one shorter ????    Does the bottom (inside) of your oil pan have a baffle and a "top plate".
rusty

Rusty it has been 2 years since I had the oil pan off and I really can't tell you much about the dimensions of the fill or return tube.  I believe the oil pan does have a baffle to trap slug.  Based on everything you have reported, bench testing of the pump and verification that the pump is turning in the engine the only possible reason you could not be pumping oil is that there must be an air leak between the pump and the oil.  The input tubing must be leaking somewhere.  

My 2 cents,   Chet...

PS...On a second thought the tubing could be clogged but I assume you have been all over this.  Maybe you could use some shop air down the fill tub and by closing the input end see if the air escapes anywhere else.  But you have probably been down this path also. 

This one is a puzzlement.

« Last Edit: April 22, 2010, 05:57:03 PM by chetbrz »
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Gary 30U

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Re: oil pressure
« Reply #17 on: April 22, 2010, 10:56:00 PM »
Just another opinion.

When I started my 30U a couple years ago it didn't show any oil pressure either. I went though all the standard checks, i.e. gauge, blocked pressure line to gauge etc. and found there was not pressure coming out of the block at the oil pressure lines attachment point. I figured it was the pump and removed it and sent it to Egge in California. They rebuilt it and sent it back. When I had it off I noticed that the suction line coming out through the block had some bad kinks in it. I figured this would be and easy piece to replace (WRONG). I took the pan off and yes it does have a baffel in the bottom.  To make a long story short I had to buy a special bender to do the 1/2" suction pipe and it took me about three tries to get it right. When I was all done I still didn't have any pressure. My problem was that I hadn't tightened the suction line on the pump tight enough. Now I find I have to much pressure and have to cut it back as it idles with 40 PSI. Understand I could wash out the babbet bearing.

Anyway, you can make a new suction tube, but check the tightness of the pump end first. If you deside to replace the tube, try not to bend it any more than necessary when you take it out. There are a couple of unusual beds that need to be there for proper placement and it nice to have a good pattern. Can't remember what I did, but there was a little seal issue there the tube comes up through the block, but you can figure something for that.

Gary

29UJohn

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Re: oil pressure
« Reply #18 on: April 23, 2010, 09:40:36 PM »
Rusty,
Please let us know what Egge says about your oil pump.

Chet,
Regarding the dipstick and oil quantity, when I bought my 29 in 73, it had a dip stick from a latter model Plymouth that indicated 6 quarts.  I remarked it for four.
John
1929U 4 Dr

Gary 30U

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Re: oil pressure
« Reply #19 on: April 25, 2010, 06:14:12 PM »
Guess I wasn't very clear. Egge rebuilt the oil pump and it works just fine. In fact I had done the forbidden thing and messed with my pressure releaf  spring before haveing it rebuild and now have to cut it back some. At idle, or at RPM, it produces 40 PSI. I guess this is where the relief valve is set.

I have a couple differnt styles of oil dip stick and the increments are the same on both.

Gary

chetbrz

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Re: oil pressure
« Reply #20 on: April 26, 2010, 06:14:23 AM »
Rusty,
Please let us know what Egge says about your oil pump.

Chet,
Regarding the dipstick and oil quantity, when I bought my 29 in 73, it had a dip stick from a latter model Plymouth that indicated 6 quarts.  I remarked it for four.


John,

I must have the same dip stick that you have because I would have to add 2 additional quarts to reach the full line. 

Tks, Chet...
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Doug

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Re: oil pressure
« Reply #21 on: April 26, 2010, 07:30:42 AM »
This happened to me once, I changed my oil filled it to the full mark, drove the car some, checked the oil before the next drive and it was low. Put some oil inn drove it again, Checked it later and it was over full. Had to get some out. Havn't had any more problems. But the oil has some place in there it can hang up and not go back to the pan.

Rusty

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Re: oil pressure
« Reply #22 on: May 03, 2010, 06:21:06 PM »
I think I found the problem.  The pump checks out by EGGE.  Good shape.  They tested and sent it back.  It appears the copper tube to the brass fitting on the suction side of the pump is leaking.  When the engine started, oil would come out of the hole which the oil pressure gauge would mount to.  The oil ran out, not under pressure, more like it leaked out.  I took the brass fitting and screwed it to the copper line and mounted brass fitting with clear rubber hose to the pipe thread side that would screw into the oil pump.  I used mouth suction and could suck up oil but bubbles could be seen  in the line.  I then used some teflon tape between the flare of the copper tube and mounting surface on the brass T, now no bubbles seen. 

 The question I have is should I just tight the snot out of the copper tube to brass T or should I use a little red gasket sealer between the two?  I understand that I could get some sealer into the brass T which would get sucked into the pump and pushed to "bad" places somewhere in the oil system of the engine.
rusty

29UJohn

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Re: oil pressure
« Reply #23 on: May 07, 2010, 10:23:08 PM »
You could try tightening the snot out of it.  Most likely it is either not lining up straight, or the flare is damaged, or (hopefully not) the brass T-fitting male end is damaged.

I recommend making a new copper intake line.  As Gary said, it is a real pain, and will take some time, but that would be the best thing to do.  I remade mine after the engine was rebuilt.  I used one of those coiled spring benders.  As for the attachment to the center bearing, best to replace that fitting with a modern type compression fitting, if not already done so.  
« Last Edit: May 07, 2010, 10:28:11 PM by 29UJohn »
John
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Rusty

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Re: oil pressure
« Reply #24 on: May 09, 2010, 06:05:59 PM »
Update.  Still does not work.  I got the oil pump back from EGGE and they said it was within normal limits.  I then made all new copper lines.  That is a pain.  It took 4 trys before I got a acceptable line.  I would bend just enough to kink them which then a small crack would happen at that spot.  I also replaced all brass fittings.  It does not look orginial but they will work.  I retight all fittings in the crankcase.  I then poured oil in the pump (vac fitting) and cranked, no oil pressure.  I have the spark plugs out (Increased the crank RPM) and then disconnected the oil line and just watched to see if oil would come out.  Nothing.  I then plugged the vacuum port on the pump and cranked, nothing out the oil gauge hole.  I had my wife crank the engine and I put my thumb over the suction side of the oil pump, I could not feel a suction.  Should you feel anything, weak or strong?  
Can I run the engine with vacuum side plugged?  Minutes or hours or years???
Should I test run for a 10 seconds with the vac plugged and see what happens??
I put fitting on the suction line and could suck up oil thru the line by using mouth suction so oil can get from the pan to the pump.
THis stupid pump has set me back about 1-2 months.
Thanks

Rusty

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Re: oil pressure
« Reply #25 on: May 09, 2010, 07:36:28 PM »
How far should the oil pressure relief valve be screwed in?  It appears that it could be turned in quite it, about 5/8 inch deep from being flush with the out edge.
rusty
Thanks to all who have helped with ideas on this.

Rusty

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Re: oil pressure
« Reply #26 on: June 03, 2010, 02:19:47 PM »
Ok, this is what I did.  I gave up.  I took the car to a hot rod shop that does alot of "old school" engines.  Model A 4 clyinder with F heads, ford flathead V8, stove bolt 6's are common with them.  After 1 day, he had no idea, repeated everything I did with no luck.   He took the fuel pump all apart and resealed with no luck.  He then just plugged the vacuum line and instant pressure, 50 psi.  Once the pressure regulator was turned down, starts at 38 psi steady.  It now has a electric fuel pump with the pressure setting at 1 psi and the vauccum fuel pump as a fake.  His advice was that as long as the pressure is turned down, plugging off the vauccm line should have no ill effects on the oil pump.  It works now.  I plan on driving the rest of the summer and will update if I develope problems.  rusty

chetbrz

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Re: oil pressure
« Reply #27 on: June 03, 2010, 06:01:38 PM »
Rusty,

Thanks for all the posts.  My 29 has an electric fuel pump since I purchased the car.  The line going to the vacuum side of the oil pump is connected for looks to the Vacuum tank fuel pump.  I will have to check to see if it is plugged or not.  I never paid much attention to it since the car worked just fine.

I am glad you got the oil pressure working. 

Chet...
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