Author Topic: fan blade  (Read 1983 times)

Rusty

  • Senior Forum Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 345
    • View Profile
fan blade
« on: July 25, 2010, 04:08:43 PM »
I have a stock two blade fan blade.  Does any know if there is a bolt on replacement 4 blade to help with cooling?
rusty

chetbrz

  • POC MEMBER
  • Senior Forum Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 1432
    • View Profile
    • My Space on the Web
Re: fan blade
« Reply #1 on: July 26, 2010, 11:10:52 PM »
Rusty,

If you are having problems with over heating the first thing I would suspect is radiator flow.   The Plymouth system works fine but you need good flow through the large radiator.  I have had my car out on 95 degree days and driven many miles with stable water temperature.  I use a motor meter in the cap to monitor my engine’s water temperature and it works just fine.  The only draw back is that you can’t open the engine compartment with the motor meter cap.  The additional fan blade may provide some additional help at idle but once you are moving natural airflow should do the trick. 

You can test the effectiveness of the radiator by taking temperature readings from top to bottom.  As you probe down the radiator from top to bottom, the bottom should get progressively cooler.   By taking many readings on each column up and down you might discover that there could be a section with poor water circulation.  All it would take to foul things up would be for someone to have dumped some radiator sealer in your radiator over the past 80 years.  Remember with no pump the water needs to flow unrestricted in order to cool efficiently.   The key to the thermal-siphon system is a large radiator.  Water pumps allowed for smaller radiators, which freed up space in the modern engine compartment.

A question, is the radiator original ?  Does it have a hole for the crank ?

Chet…
http://www.1948Plymouth.info           Web Master - Forum Administrator - AACA member

Rusty

  • Senior Forum Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 345
    • View Profile
Re: fan blade
« Reply #2 on: July 27, 2010, 12:25:22 AM »
I think it is orginial.  There is a hole for the crank.  The car runs about 5-10 miles before overheating.  I can not use a moto-meter since the filler neck is dent/pushed off to the side, the chrome radiator shell does not allow it to fit the filler neck.  I thought it was the generator bearing, which did go bad but that is not my overall problem.  I have had the radiator out to the rad shop twice and both times they said it flowed "ok".  I have since mailed it to the   brass radiator works   which is in hemmings all the time.  They are going to get it later this week and see if it needs a new core.  The top tank will need to straighten and the filler tube straighten.  Over the phone they said it sounded like a bad radiator, flows ok but not cooling due to scale/rust.  I had used vinagar as a low dose acid over night with no change.  I also ordered a 41 plymouth 6 clyinder fan blade off ebay that has the same mounting bolt pattern as the current two blade so that will help.  I am toying with idea of having new modern style core vs the honeycomb and having a stone guard also so it does not look "new" at a show.   Brass works said that they can make any radiator but a 10 fin per inch does really cool off a thermo cooled engine.
Will update once they call back.   rusty

1929luv

  • Senior Forum Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 156
    • View Profile
Re: fan blade
« Reply #3 on: July 27, 2010, 05:18:02 AM »
My radiator cosy 2800.00 from them.(Brass works) but seems to look good putting it on this weekend it has honey comb. Just an I dea of cost they put new core in and bottom tank .  Good luck and i am going to check on that 4 blasde fan my self thanks Craig

Gary 30U

  • POC MEMBER
  • Senior Forum Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 290
    • View Profile
Re: fan blade
« Reply #4 on: July 29, 2010, 03:37:57 AM »
Before you spend any big money for something you don't need check the passages in the engine itself.

I had a heating problem in my 30U (with a water pump) and used regular raditor cleaner (twice) and blew out the engine with pressure water with radiator removed. I couldn't believe how much crap came out of the engine block itself.

Both the early convection system and the pumped system have worked well for 80 years. Don't spend a bundle to treat the symptons, find out waht the problem is and fix it.

Just my thoughts.

Gary

Rusty

  • Senior Forum Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 345
    • View Profile
Re: fan blade
« Reply #5 on: July 29, 2010, 03:55:20 PM »
I had the block cleaned at the machine shop.  I have the head off now and will use the pressure washer in the water jacket to try flushing the water jacket.  Can not hurt.  I got a fan blade off a 41 dodge and that fits perfect.   I do have a 42 buick with a straight 8 that ran really hot.  During the rebuild, I flushed the water jacket with a pressure washer and got a lot of rust out around the rear cylinder.  I also bolted  on a fan blade from a 59 caddy and dropped the temp 10 degrees.
rusty