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Dave's 1929 U Resto project

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There is a fellow that makes the original style hose clamps any size you want for a very reasonable price.

I haven't forgotten about my thread and now I have all my pictures brought over to Chet's photo site, so its a matter of many hours to get the images re-linked from the new host.

Car was rewired last summer, I found someone willing to work on the honeycomb radiator this winter. Most shops will not touch one. I put that in last week, so far no leaks. Also swapped out the homemade distributor base for the original I got with with some spare parts.

I am wondering how much blow by you guys are seeing on your engines. I would assume mine is original, and nearly worn out. There is a lot of build up in the engine compartment so it has been doing that for quite some time in its earlier life. I have also read they are "ventilated crankcases" so I'm sure they have smoked some from day one. I will put a link to a video below, its about 30 seconds showing the amount coming out the breather and other vent. I also warmed up the engine and did a compression test. If anyone else has some numbers and engine condition I would like to compare.

#1 60 PSI  #2 75 PSI  #3 60 PSI  #4 75 PSI

Hi Dave,

Prior to the rebuild when I started my car I would have a black spot on the ground from the soot that blow out of the exhaust pipe.  I didn't notice a lot of smoke coming out the back when I drove the car, just at start up when cold.  Also I didn't get many tailgaters. I think I burned/leaked a quart of oil every 100 miles.   Compression was about 50 across the four cylinders.  I am interested to see what compression I get out of the new rebuild.

What are your plans for the restoration.  Mechanicals or aesthetics or both.

Cheers,  Chet...


--- Quote from: chetbrz on April 30, 2018, 10:10:10 PM ---
What are your plans for the restoration.  Mechanicals or aesthetics or both.

Cheers,  Chet...

--- End quote ---

Good Question, don't have a definitive answer. So far its been maintain the car as if it was my driver back in 1930. Fix what needs fixin' and run it. I want to keep it as original as possible. One benefit to this is cost and time. Its cheaper to throw a little money at it here and there, run it until the next issue pops up. Vs rebuilding, plating, painting etc. everything to new. (I'm sure you can speak to that) Problem with the nibble method is the seemingly perpetual assembly and disassembly. Fix one thing, then go at it again. Where if you tore it all the way down and addressed everything, it should be good to go. If I did that, it would be years before I would be driving the car again. I'm going to pull the oil pan, take a look around, clean it up and give her a bottle of Lucas oil treatment. Curious to see if it quiets up and smokes less. I'll also do a compression test again.

Does anyone have any insight on vacuum and how it relates to the oil pump? Here is what I mean. Got the car, vacuum canister was trashed. Vacuum line was hooked up. I removed the can and capped the vacuum line. Ran it that way the first year or 2, keep the dust out. Keep in mind I do not put many miles on, mostly shows or running on private land. I noticed the other year the relation to plugging this and oil pressure. Plugged the oil pressure goes way up, sucking air real low. Left uncapped the last (??) can't remember how long figured it was designed that way and it maybe better off. What I didn't notice before but did this weekend was if I put my thumb on it (plug) within 10 seconds the lifters cladder like they are starved for oil. Did this a few times with repeatable results. Made a video hoping it was audible but it was too windy out. I don't know how accurate my pressure gauge but moves. Wondering if plugging that is a bad thing, furthered some engine wear?  In my mind a bump oil pressure is usually not a bad thing.

Interesting observation and question.  I kind of considered the vacuum side of the oil pump like the opposite side of a diaphragm fuel pump.  It would make sense that if one side was restricted the other side would be proportionately effected.  I think there would be two considerations, pressure and flow.  Each of these might be effected differently when you also consider the pressure release valve in the block and where the pressure is measured.  I would think that this relationship between vacuum and engine RPM to provide metered fuel flow across both high and low RPM periods would be a delicate equilibrium where even vacuum line ID would also effect the balance.  Obviously Chrysler had it figured out in that no overflow safety measures were put into place. 

It's really a very simple design that appears to work well when everything is in spec.  Traveling at the moment but something to check into.  Will be heading down this path in the near further. 


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