Quote from: papajimmm on January 27, 2019, 01:09:17 PM
  Don't suppose you have part number : I have boxes of bearings that I have no idea what they are for, mostly newer
that say MOPAR but several others of various mfgs, it will be a quick search but will keep eye open as I go through boxes

Plymouth Part # 41208  Release Bearing Assembly



The bearing can be removed from the assembly plate. The inner race diameter (id) of the bearing only is = 1.8125" (1 & 13/16")
The ID of the assembly plate with the bearing installed is:  1.500" (1 & 1/2")
UGE Ball Bearing Co. NICETOWN Philadelphia PA NO. 5068 or 5063.  This number could be the 4 digit phone number used in the 20's, not sure.

Quote from: imoore on January 23, 2019, 04:40:35 AM
Hey guys

I have decided to put a rebuild kit through my master. As it leaks out dust boot.
Wondering if anyone had some light to where these components go

1: wavy thin shim washer
2: thick rubber round gasket. ( same size of bore).

Ian,

I believe the early 28Q's had a different master than the 29 & 30.  See below the picture of the 29U master.  I believe the new parts in the picture are placed in the order of reassembly.  Removing the end cap isn't necessary, just clean with solvent. 



Here is an old page from my 29 site from a repair in 2006.  Sorry out of sight out of mind.  Don't remember much about the repair.

http://www.1948plymouth.info/1929/Work_files/2006-8/11192006.htm

Doesn't answer your question but maybe the pictures might help.

Quote from: abradney on January 18, 2019, 06:49:09 PM
That does thank you. So did they always have a long 'joining' bar that went across the back?

Looks the same as my 29U.

This should help:  (1929 U)

Quote from: abradney on January 12, 2019, 05:33:33 PM
Chet, the G-180 part #?

Yes G180  1929-32

I am currently using these cylinders on my car.  I got them from Andy Bernbaum when he still owned the business.  They work for sure but the rubber dust covers are a little fatter then the originals and you may find that the hub bolts may rub a flat spot on them.  Just an FYI...

Same Parts a little cheaper.

https://www.oldmoparts.com/parts-service-brakes.aspx

Dave,

See what below. ??  Sorry my iPhone didn't show the failed pictures.

The links you posted require Google Login in order to be viewed ?

I hear you.   

Looking Good !!

The cold weather around here has driven me from the garage.  Hopefully get back soon.  Snow coming this weekend.  Tough to do body work when the weather is this cold. 

Quote from: racertb on January 08, 2019, 06:49:15 PM
Yes, the bolts below the radiator as well as the bolts that attach the fenders.

Thanks Ted, 

Quote from: racertb on January 08, 2019, 04:12:07 PM
Chet, all of mine have the carriage bolt style heads...looking at them underneath, there are nuts and washers.  I don't believe this is original, but not sure.

Are you talking about the carriage bolts below the radiator holding the sheet metal.  I believe these are original, just looking for verification.   Originally painted or plated ?

What about the hardware holding the Sheetmetal below the radiator.  3 Carriage bolts.  Left, Right, and center

Thanks Frank, that explains both posts and the original material used. 
Were they chrome or nickel.  Maybe I can find this hardware in stainless steel.  Just a thought.

What about the hardware for the sheet metal under the radiator.  Were they plated also?

Quote from: Russ T. Fender on January 06, 2019, 08:23:09 PM
For what it's worth, my 30-U fenders are mounted with the slotted screws you show in your picture and the nuts are square.  No carriage bolts.

I think these are original.., hopefully we will get a few more responses to confirm the same.   Thanks

Quote from: abradney on January 06, 2019, 11:23:38 AM
I'm pretty sure someone sent me a picture at one point and I noticed carriage bolts holding the fenders to to the frame, the 'square' cut seems to confirm this.  When I remount my fenders I will be using carriage bolts, I seem to remember the bolts were chrome too, and not body color matched.

FYI the fender holes were not squared but elongated round for minor adjustment.  The nuts on the screws were old fashion square nuts with star and flat washer.