Really nice Ted, beautiful car.

Ted, Wish I could help you but the hinges on the 29 sedan are simple strap hinges.  It sounds like Touring29 has a good handle on the issue.  A little welding and some bushings sound like a great idea.

FYI,

I'm sure you are aware of this.  Three wire harnesses come together at the column switch.  The main Harness, the front lights, and the rear lights.  At least that's the setup I received from YnZ.  I also had extra wires for signal lights.  Below is a picture from Crazzydave which shows the stock wiring.  No signal lights.

29 Plymouth Sedan

The wire coming down from the horn bracket is the power to the column switch.

You can find a number of work projects associated with the wire harness.  Click on the link below.

My Project Files

Excellent, congratulations!!

I'm glad someone is enjoying the warm weather.  My front wheel is in the shop getting re-spoked.  Hope to be back at it in the spring.  They have already put ice melt on our roads after a spout of cold weather.   Until the roads are washed clean of the road salt the car sits in the shelter of the garage.

Quote from: 29UJohn on December 18, 2021, 01:08:24 PM
Opps - I was talking the oil pressure line that comes off the other side of the oil/vac pump to the gage, uses same 1/8 line.

Wow.., I missed that completely.  I must be getting a little senile. 

My car has the in-dash oil gauge setup the same way.  I also have a modern gauge clamped to the steering column and tapped from the center oil port on the other side of the block.  My original gauge is also using the original tubing.  Fingers crossed !!

You can anchor the line just don't tightened it down. Allow some movement. Mine is attached in one place to the firewall midway between the vacuum pump and the oil pump.  The line runs straight down along side the vacuum pump.  Then a gentle 90 degree turn into the oil pump.

You can use a piece of larger rubber vacuum hose to protect the clamp point.

If you are using a stock Kingston pump the float only affects the trapdoor between the upper tank and the lower.  Vacuum is constant from the pump and is only affected by engine speed.   The system is in equilibrium with motor speed which is reasonably predictable.   I am assuming that when the trap is opened by the float gasoline delivery is slowed into the upper chamber.  There is no check or shut off valve.  It's hard to wrap one's head around this device but it is very simplistic and inexpensive approach that works OK.., the majority of the time.

I would make sure you have strain relief on the plumbing.  A loop would be fine, just don't clamp the tubing down. 

That doesn't sound right.  The line going to the vacuum pump should be sucking air.., not blowing out oil.  Looking at the pump.., were you connected to the left side of the 'T' fitting.   If the line breaks oil pressure might drop about 5 psi but it shouldn't expel oil.  The top 'T' fitting is the pump input.  This should be sucking oil into the pump.  Something doesn't sound right.

Quote from: chetbrz on December 04, 2021, 02:40:58 PM

The Fedco plate it still on the dash and in pretty good shape. The number is RS335E If I have it right that's 46,3358

According to the Fedco Number it appears this car was manufactured in or around early April of 1929.  It seems that this car was manufactured within the first year of Plymouth production.  The Q line started in June of 1928 and the U line started in January of 1929.  Both the Q & U were manufactured at the same time in January of 1929 until the line for the Q shut down the first week of February 1929.

http://www.1948plymouth.info/SupportPages/FEDCO_Information.htm

Enjoy Chet...

Very nice, very rare, restorable old Plymouth.  Is the dash tag readable?  The Fedco Plate.

As Russ said parts for an old car like this are hard to come by but not impossible to find or have made.  The hardest parts are body parts and for the most part this car looks pretty complete.  If you are interested in an original restoration, you can fix the obvious and drive it while you collected the needed restoration parts.  I puttered around with mine for around 11 years before starting the restoration.  All that time I collected the necessary parts, information, and decided on the restoration plan.   Then spent the next 4 years working on the project. 

If you choose to pass on the car, please let this site know who the seller is.  I am sure there might be some interest from a couple of members.   

Welcome Chet...

1/8" soft copper tubing.  It's been a while since I thought about this so please review the attached project post for conversion information.

FYI... 186 miles since I primed the pump and still working without issue.   

http://www.1948plymouth.info/1929/Work_files/2019/12162019.htm

PS... This is what I did there may be other solutions I'm not aware of.