Hi Steve,

I hope everything heals up as expected.  Ted no news may be good news in that everything is working A-ok, fingers crossed.  I will be taking my 48 Plymouth to an airshow this coming weekend,  Hope it doesn't rain.  It's off topic for this forum but I will post a link to the pictures anyway.   

Cheers, Chet...

Amen !!!

Dido,  nice job,  Chet...

Jim Benjaminson sells Goodyear Collector Series tires and he is also the Plymouth Owner's Club national secretary.   He would also have all the correct info for your particular car. you can reach him at: 

benji@utma.com

Quote from: Old Man on August 19, 2014, 10:39:36 AM
... Chet,I add a slip coefficient additive called Prolong,have for many years. I had a knock in one of my 6s for 2 or 3 years that I finally got around to and it was on a big end of a rod. I found no damage whatsoever and I just changed the bearing shells and that fixed the knock. I believe that the Prolong saved the day. I highly recommend you use something like it if you're going to muck around with your oil pressure especially on the a slung babbitt motor. I have a friend who has a 1953 Chev truck and says the 5 psi that it runs is the normal oil pressure and he has no worries,so he says. He has had the truck for several years. Maybe we worry too much about our Plymouths. And they have better metals in the block etc. than the off brands. Also Chet you can't compress a liquid. You can only compress a gas. This is why brakes work the way they do. The brake fluid works as a solid when pushed against but goes back to a liquid when the pushing stops. (Pumps ,such as on firertrucks, are pushing the water out at exactly the same rate as they are moving it through the vanes of the impeller. There is no compression. What you see coming out the firefighter's hoses is what is moving through the pump. )         

Thanks for the info on the Prolong I will be addressing the motor sometime next year.  I haven't driven the 29 in awhile.  As far as liquids under pressure go., I do understand the physics.  What prompted your statement ?

Chet...   

Original paint, I love it.  Congratulations Dave !

I think mine is in this same range.  It's been awhile, but someplace between 45-60 sounds OK to me.  I think the main thing is consistency from cylinder to cylinder rather than a higher value. 

My 2.5 cents.

Hi ski,

I guess you have been bitten again by the refurb bug.  I like your coupe and the wire wheels will be a nice addition.  I retired in July of this year and plan to start on my 29 next year after I sell my house here in Virginia and relocate completely to our home in Delaware.  I agree with you on the patina imperfections.  My car has a very old leatherette.  I don't think it is original but certainly early.  It's not ripped but really shows her age.  When I redo the interior I hope to use the old leatherette or most of it.  Like you I think the patina really gives the car character and makes it a lot more interesting.

Good luck keep us tuned into your progress.

Chet...

Doug,

You are a man after my own heart.  I was driving the 29 one day when someone pulled up to me at a traffic light and said what a nice old car.  I told him the same thing that one of these days when I can save up enough money I was thinking of upgrading to a newer modal. 

Have fun,  Chet...

Hi Dave,

Nice work and pictures.    Thanks for posting,   Chet...   

Quote from: 29plycoop on August 06, 2014, 10:18:46 PM
Is there a paint or coating that can be put on the brake fluid can that will not come off from brake fluid getting on it?  Seems like after a while the seams leach fluid, or when filling fluid gets on it and the paint peels off. Any ideas out there? - Rich

Rich,

I used the stuff below both on my 48 Plymouth gas tank and the 29's brake fluid can.  So far around 8 years and no problems.



Here is the link to the repair in 2005

http://www.1948plymouth.info/1948p15/reports/20045/09182005.htm

I am sure you can Google it for specifications.  Once dry I believe it is impervious to chemicals.

Chet...

Dave,

I also have a 2-4 psi fuel pump and have used it for a number of years with no problems.  I got the idea from the Model A ford guys.  I use a 6v positive ground inverter to produce 12 vdc negative ground for the pump.  It goes on with the ignition switch ckt.  I bought my fuel pump from Auto-Zone.  I also run a 6vdc positive ground alternator rather than the Generator.  Nothing is modified and can easily be returned to original.  Just a note: I don't run the stock carburetor.  I have a Tilson updraft carburetor from the early 30's.  It might have been designed for a mechanical fuel pump I don't know for sure.

Chet..

Quote from: frankp on July 28, 2014, 10:53:06 AM
I'm having the brake can decal replicated.  Expect to have within next 2 weeks.  I'm hoping for the best.  The extras will be for sale, if they look good.

Hay Frank, keep me in the loop for one of the extra decals.  Chet...

Nice work Frank,  Enjoy the rest of the summer behind the wheel.

Chet...

Steve,

I don't believe the hubcaps were used for grease since centrifugal force would only push the grease to the outer depths of the hubcaps.  I haven't gotten around to it yet but I was thinking that you may be able to find a grease cap that would fit the inner hub dimension and still allow for the hubcaps to go over the grease cap.  Of course I an speaking about a 29 or possibly a 1930 Plymouth.  Not sure about others   But in answer to the direct question I would say No, not intended for grease recirculation.

Chet...