The neoprene seal is a split seal the military used on the six cylinders, but to use it properly, the opening must be modified by a machine shop. Recommend sticking with the rope seal.

There are two sizes of rope seals that were used, as well as a cork seal.

If you think your new rope seal is too thick, check with Felpro, Napa, or Then & Now Automotive and ask for the smaller diameter one.

Although you can replace the rope seal without removing the pan, and lowering the rear bearing cap, it is a challenge. The trick is to allow a little bit of rope to stick out on both sides, so when you install the lower half the ends mush up against each other.

There is an old tool used to install the upper half ( I think I may have one) but never tried using it.

Sad to see this forum is going away at the end of this year.

Need a 1929 Plymouth u right front fender

I believe this is a photo of a wheel for a 28 Plymouth at the Chrysler museum

Should have said valve stem covers, but here's my 29 wheel

I agree with Rusty! They look good & period correct and may even be beneficial if they keep the stem centered in the wheel better. Unlike the Model A it's  hard to track down what is 100% correct on these cars. if you got em & like em run em!

By 1930 the use of valve stem covers which were usually used on tubes with metal valve stems was phasing out.  Plymouth never used them in 1930 if the fact that they are not listed in the Plymouth parts catalogue can be taken as evidence. A rubber stem tube with a cap was all they used.  My car has dual side mounts and one of them was original to the car according to the original owner I bought the car from in 1962 and that's what it had.  By the way, the term "schrader valve" just refers to the valve that is screwed into the valve stem.  That said, there's no reason why you can't consider the valve stem covers you have to be an after market accessory and use them if you like the way they look. Personally, while I don't have them on my 30U, I like the way they look and they certainly dress things up a bit.

Sorry I've been off the board for a while. This is the type I have on my '29 wood wheels.

Ted

The rope seal, I believe is used to make the first seal with the two bearing half caps. Thus removing pan and cap and crank to work new one in to groove ,with wood dowel . The part you have off is back-up seal . A flange with cork seal . Cork is noted my truck MPB but not the Ply MPB . I just had my lower end apart 2 years ago . Cannot yet find any good pics of . You can call to discuss 570-401-5868 .

I have our car (29U) torn down and the bell housing, flywheel & seal holder bracket thing removed. I have a rope seal that came from Best Gaskets. The seal seems a lot thicker in all dimensions than the old seal and although I haven't tried yet it seems like it will be impossible to get it crammed in placece in that cheesy bracket in the limited space between the flange on the crank & the back of the engine. I looked at the old threads and some mention dropping the pan. I don't see how that would help anything as the seal holder bolts to the back of the rear cap and the back of the block. Someone also mentioned using a neoprene split seal. I have tried to find a seal that would fit with no luck. Anyone have a part # for said seal?

I have several computer nerd millennial people in our family that could do it but they are not necessary antique car lovers. Since this is sort of a private forum how much maintenance does it take? I know the FB forums fight constantly to keep spammers out but I don't know how much of a issue it is here. We have some time to figure it out. I would volunteer some time and money to do my part. To be honest my main passion is tri-five Chevys but our Plymouth is important to me too and this is a great resource.