The only picture I have of an original 29U front interior is the drawing shown on page 230 of the Master Parts List Issued April 1, 1934.  See Below:



Question 1:

Item 19 - Foot rest.  Anyone have one of these and could supply a picture.  Also what type of material is it.  I assume metal.

From the picture I am assuming that there are finished kick panels under the dash on the driver's and passenger sides.  I will be reproducing these.

From what I can tell from other pictures there doesn't seem to be any wind lace around the door openings.  Can anyone confirm or deny this.

Map pouch is only on the passenger door.

Any comments would be appreciated,  Chet...

Thanks to a heads-up from frankp I was able to purchase a set of what might be NOS running Boards for my 29 4dr sedan.  Obviously they have been banging around for some time but no rust and near perfect shape.



The rubber appears to be original: The ribs are raised not the flats.



Below is the repro rubber with the flats raised and the ribs flat:



Very Close !!

I will most likely clean up the aluminum and use these boards just as they are. 
My car is finally whole again.

Chet...

On the 29 4door Sedan does anyone know it there is a usable rear window gasket available or material that would work.  My car had nothing and the rear window was held in place with some type of putty.

Also was there specific interior rear window moldings or will a simple wooden window trim suffice ?  Maybe upholstered 1/4" trim pieces ?

Any thoughts appreciated.

Tks Chet...

While looking for headlight components I found my original Hayes Body Tag.  It was in an unmarked envelope with my extra lamp parts.  Go figure why, but at the time I put it there I must have had a reason ??  Since my car was register in Florida & Virginia under the Body Number.., getting my Delaware Title would have been much easier if I would have had this original tag when I applied for the Delaware title.  Water under the bridge now, but the prodigal son has returned and is in a safe place.    The picture below of the suspects last know whereabouts.



PS... Good recommendation for some type of inventory ledger to remind one where stuff is hiding out.  Half the time I can't find my car keys so finding something like this after years and a residence move is truly Serendipity !!

I reported previously that I reinstalled my gas tank with the replica Ford tank gauge.  This didn't go well for two reasons.  The cork float was no longer functional and able to float the gauge.  Also the Flange that holds the gauge in place was leaking.  It appears that it was sealed with either body filler or JB Weld.  I have found that regular JB Weld does not hold up with constant exposure to gasoline.  So since I had to remove the tank and drill out the flange rivets to clean all the flange surfaces.  I decided to replace the gauge with the original gauge I acquired some time ago.  I ordered new float material from Restoration Supply and have 3mm thick 2.5" diameter glass on its way.  I was thinking of soldering the flange but I would probably loosen other soldered areas in the process.  I settled on Permatex Gasket solution that is resistant to all automotive fuels.  If it doesn't hold up over time I can always try something else.  The tank comes out pretty easily. 

Cleaning off all the old bondo or JB Weld took some time but everything is ready to go back together.  I just need to get all the parts / gaskets together.



Any suggestions would be appreciated.  As always I'll keep you informed both good and bad.

I had a broken door handle.  I think someone tried to repair it in the past but a little pressure and the end just broke off.  So I decided to repair it, after all if it's broken.., anything is an improvement.  Well almost anything.

I purchased some 5/16 square stock and decided to weld a new section of stock to the handle.  Before attempting the weld.  I measured and drilled and tapped the end for a 10-32 screw.  I squared the pieces in my drill press vise then went to town with the wire welder.



I welded all four sides and ground each side down, before doing the next.  The results were excellent.  Almost impossible to tell the two pieces were joined together.



"I love it when a plan comes together." !!

Year 4 Hopefully the conclusion of this project.

Just a recap for January.  If weather permits, work continues 

http://www.1948plymouth.info/1929/Work_files/2020/Jan-2020.htm



Chet...

In order to get my car registered for Delaware roads I need to have a working windshield wiper. I was just wondering what anyone here may have done in this area.  Also what a stock whipper assembly might have looked like.  There was one on my car but I don't know if it was original and it definitely doesn't work.

Any comments would be appreciated also any pictures would be helpful. 

It appears that my car doesn't want to pump up oil pressure after sitting for a period.  I have to rev the engine to have the oil pressure pump up to normal.  Never had this issue with the vacuum fuel pump line plugged.  At start up, the car will not pump up to pressure at a slow idle.   I can't find any leaks.  I am using two oil gauges but they are in a closed system I don't believe that they would cause this.  After 90 years maybe my oil pump is a little on the weak side.  To be on the safe side I might have to revert back to the electric fuel pump.  Maybe try the Steward pump.  Don't know.

Any suggestions,  Chet...

I installed the drive shaft but lost one of the Castle Nuts.  I went to every store you can think of and finally found it at Ace Hardware.  7/16 20-tpi.  I attached a video of my first drive out of the garage.  But that's not the something new.

http://www.1948plymouth.info/1929/images/Build/MVI_1576.MP4

When driving back into the garage I came up a little too fast with the clutch.  Before the rebuild.., my car would have stalled.  Instead the car burned rubber on the driveway.  Well that's the something new.



I think I am ready for the "Salt Flats".

Car pulls strong with no clutch chatter.  Hopefully it stays like this. 

I have noticed that with the vacuum fuel pump the oil pressure takes a little bit longer to come up to run pressure.  Has anyone also noticed this or is this also something new.  Maybe about 3-4 seconds

While waiting for my speedometer cable I started work on the Kingston Vacuum pump.  Thanks to Russ T. Fender I had some extra parts that I am sure I will be able to get this working, I hope.  I cleaned everything in the ultrasonic cleaner.  Between the two Vacuum pumps I have I was able to get one top unite repaired.  See Below.



The NITROPHYL® Float Material I purchased from Restoration Supply Company.  It is 2" X 3" long.  I cut it down to 2.5" long.  The normal width of the float is 1.5" but the 2" float works OK.  I shortened the 3 inch length because of the added width of the new material.  Hopefully it will maintain the proper fuel dump to the lower fuel chamber.   

We'll see...

Has anybody put the electric fuel pump in line with the Vacuum pump, strictly for priming purposes.  I think Tod Fitch on the POC web forum might have mentioned this some years ago.  I believe you can pull gas through the pump without it being connected electrically.  This way if you should run down the Vacuum fuel tank you can hit a switch and prime it easily.

Just wondering if anybody has tried this ?

Apparently my speedometer had seized or at the very least, became so hard to turn that it broke my universal replacement cable.  I have another 0.130 cable on its way.  Since I have a spare speedometer and my original is not functioning, why not take it apart.  There are services that repair these things so I am not recommending to anyone to play with this item.  I just posted for informational purposes.



Here is a link below to what I learned and accomplished:

http://www.1948plymouth.info/1929/Work_files/2019/12032019.htm

I was just wondering what if any protection was applied to the roadside of the wood flooring in the 28/29 cars.

Originally:

• Was there any weather treatment ?
• Was there any metal skins especially over the emergency brake area ?
• What about the front kick panel. Just wood ?
• For those that have replaced the floor what if anything did you apply to the road side of the floor ?

The roads were pretty rough back in the late 20's early 30's so I was just wondering how this was addressed from the manufacturing standpoint.
Anyone know or have a theory ?  I don't have a clue.

With the wife cooking pies and other treats for turkey day and storing them in the cool garage, I have been temporarily evicted for the holidays. 

I am looking for a replacement cable.  I believe a universal internal cable replacement will work.  The cable thickness of the one in my car is 0.130 OD  This was a universal cable replacement I installed in 2006.  Got it on eBay.   I can purchase the 0.130 cable from Restoration Supply but it isn't squared on the end and they don't sell the proper tips ?? 

Any Suggestions.

Chet...

I am not quite sure if I have this correct so maybe we can start a discussion on Firewall components.
I think I have everything just a couple questions.

1. Is the picture correct ?
2. What is the Red Circled grommet used for ?
3. The Red Arrows point to mounting screw holes.  What goes there ?

I know what all the other holes are used for.  I think ??  Pictures are always helpful.

Hi Ted,

I know you were interested so I detailed the repair in the attached link.

http://www.1948plymouth.info/1929/Work_files/2019/11102019.htm



Chet...

My car didn't have any grease caps on any of the wheels, only the Plymouth hub caps.  I guess my question is for 29 Plymouth.., were there originally grease caps besides the 'P' hub caps with the wood wheels.  I would think it would make sense.  If not has anyone installed same?

I got this message from Rich TheHandleMan about a Small Farm Auction November 9th.,
in Orrtanna PA with a 29 Plymouth up for sale + other stuff.

Check it out.

http://www.auctionzip.com/Listings/3328788.html?kwd=model%20t%20ford&zip=37920&category=4